The sunflowers are going to seed. Farm stands are loaded with fresh corn and heirloom tomatoes, but there’s a touch of chill in the early morning air. Stores are already hawking Halloween candy (sigh…) and ‘Back to School’ is everywhere.
What to do with these exquisite, sweet, late summer days?
Reading a good book on the porch, perhaps interrupted by an impromptu nap. (Naps are wasted on the very young; I want someone to insist that I get MY rest everyday.) A meandering sunset walk with the dogs. A lazy day by the water, soaking in the salt air. The sweetness of shopping at farms instead of the supermarket. And-of course- the glory farm fresh summer produce: tomatoes and corn and peppers and peaches and basil and so much more, all at peak ripeness.
Which brings me to Fish & Bacon, a recipe which I think originally came from the Times, but which we have generously adapted to the contents of our pantry and our own whims. At this point, it isn’t so much a recipe as a vague template, but I make it on repeat all summer. As summer wanes, I just want Fish & Bacon more.
Preheat your oven to 375. Cut some bacon into small chunks, and fry it up. Put the bacon aside, and saute some scallions, halved cherry tomatoes, and corn cut off the cob in the bacon fat until softened and slightly browned. Add these to the bacon in an oven- safe pan. Lightly brown some white fish (cod, haddock, hake, etc, just make sure the pieces are even and at least 1.5 inches thick). Add the fish to the bacon and vegetables, season with salt and pepper, and bake for roughly 10 minutes, more for thicker fillets.
This dish is marvelously adaptable. No tomatoes? Leave them out. Add roasted fingerling potatoes. Or thin green beans. Add red pepper flakes, or garlic, or caramelized onions. Lemon zest, and/or a squeeze of lemon juice to finish. Herbs: basil, parsley, and thyme all play nicely with these flavors. The essentials are fish and bacon- or perhaps fish and olive oil if you don’t eat meat. Even if you do use the bacon, a finishing swirl of good olive oil isn’t amiss.
To drink? There is literally nothing better than a zesty bottle of Punta Crena Mattaossu (see above), all stone fruit plus citrus plus racy minerality. But you could substitute any crisp and interesting white.
To Fish & Bacon. To good wine. To summer. Cheers!